Christmas Island (featuring earthquake number 2, I kid you not).

Christmas Island (featuring earthquake number 2, I kid you not).

No it's not all Elves and reindeer, mainly crabs and birds. And a few people. But a lovely, lovely place. We've been really enjoying it. Internet, and telecommunications in general, is not their forte however.

We arrived, as planned, early Friday morning. The Border Force ship “Ocean Shield” (say it in a loud, booming, TV announcer voice) was hovering over our shoulders and called us up to ask who we were and what we were doing (seriously dudes, you've been tracking us all the way from Darwin, I'm pretty sure your database knows who were are and what we're doing) and then stayed hovering to make sure we did what we said we were going to do. Which we did. We came into Flying Fish Cove and picked up a mooring. No dramas, no stress, no problem. Then we congratulated ourselves on completing a 1500 mile journey (actually for us it was about 1700 miles with our little detour north to find the wind) and decided that it deserved a celebratory beer, even if it wasn't yet 9am.

Oh-Shun Sheeeeeld!

Flying Fish Cove is a lovely little bay with steep, forested cliffs, truckloads of birds, beach and coral and a great dirty big phosphate plant. So on our left we have tropical paradise and on our right industry central. As we finished our beers the official part of the arrival began with both the Harbourmaster and Border Force getting in contact. We would have to “clear in” to Australia, as though arriving from overseas. Border Force offered a 10am appointment and suggested we meet them “at the cabana”. I had to confirm that they did indeed mean the covered bbq area at the end of the jetty. So we hopped in Bob (our inflatable kayak, used when we're close to shore and it's too much hassle to get Doris out) and paddled ashore to meet Craig and Matt from Border Force and Tara from Customs & Quarantine. And all the very important paperwork was duly completed while we sat around a picnic table. We also got the goss on where to find the pub (and supermarket, post office and other less important places). Then we popped in to meet Harbourmaster Dave who was just as relaxed about extracting payment for his mooring as the Cabana Crew had been about their formalities.

Grainne with the phosphate plant in the background.

So Christmas Island: population of about 1200 and inhabited basically because of the phosphate mine. It was first noted by European sailors in the mid 17^th century but no one was much interested in it until the end of the 19^th century when a couple of British businessmen caught a sniff of phosphate, the British Empire claimed the island and promptly leased it to them to set up a mining company. The island was occupied by Japan during WWII, reverted back to a British colony afterwards, spent a while as part of Singapore and finally ended up being bought by Australia in the 50s. Back in the day indentured workers were brought across from Asia to work the mine which has left the island with three distinct communities – Chinese, Malay and Western. There's a mosque, Buddhist monastery, Taoist temples and a catholic church. A Malay restaurant, a Chinese restaurant and The Pub. On day one we explored the township and planned on hitting the pub for lunch but found it closed (not to mention uphill)! Thankfully Le CLA (Chinese Literary Association) was open, had a deck with seaviews and........beer. Score. Opening hours here are a little erratic, businesses seem to be mainly closed. And there's a half-day Friday thing going on too. Friday evening, back on the boat, we felt some weird vibrations from the mooring line and worried if it was secure or not. Then it seemed to settle down so we didn't think any more about it until the next day when Lillian at the pub served us the news of an earthquake along with our drinks. And apparently earthquakes are really unusual here so I think maybe we brought it with us.

A typical day here has started to look something like: lazy breakfast with freshly ground real coffee, a bit of yoga, a snorkel, a trip ashore, somehow managing to end up at the pub at 4pm for the start of Happy Hour, sunset, a slightly inebriated kayak back to the boat in the dark, sleep, repeat. A special mention for the recipient of the first Superstar Award for Going Above and Beyond which this month goes to my friend Mary, originally from Tuam and now living near Leeds in the UK. Mary managed to buy us drinks at the pub from half way around the world. So it can be done. Just sayin'.

Sunset drinks at The Golden Bosun courtesy of Mary Tyrrell (with support from Cian & Patrick).

We've had a little explore of the island and island life. Found the Post Office and Court House. 

Discovered that all the locals spend Saturday night at the outdoor cinema (this week: Men in Black, whether you like it or not). Met the local marine mechanic (Karl, as always, trying to source parts to fix a thing) who sailed here on an around Australia trip 13 years ago and hasn't quite managed to leave (Tony Yates and his partner Sharon on Southern Comfort, able to source anything you need). Visited some local tourist spots. Saw some blue crabs, some red crabs, some robber crabs, some boobies and a million seabirds in general. 

Behind the wheel of a RAV 4 again - all the hire cars on the island seem to be RAV 4s.

Nice waterfall, full of crabs.

Picnic (backpackers old reliable cheese and salami sandwich) by the cliffs.

Corally beach.

A wander through the bush.

Red crab, blue crab.

Robber crab, they're monsters and can live to be 70 years old.

Swimming hole in a cave, pretty but a bit spooky.

Found the local Christmas Island Community Radio station which is surprisingly good, if a little random. We also get ABC Perth and ABC Pilbara, surely the manliest radio station in the world – ads about rock-breaking equipment and joking about FIFO workers with their high-viz, airport lounge access and jet skis. Whenever we get chatting to people and it comes up that we sailed here they all say “oh, that's your boat down there”. I guess we are the only one here at the moment. Like mini-celebraties. Karl enjoyed it when one person said “yeah, there was another boat in a couple of weeks ago, but they were an older couple” - his hairdye is paying off!

We'll be here for another few days, weather looks good to leave on Saturday, so a bit more snorkelling, sunset drinks and fish 'n' chips. Then off to the Cocos-Keeling Islands, a hop of a mere 500 miles.

Karl turns our change collection into beer at the pub.

Karl ferries the all important Leffe aboard.

Bonus video footage!

Going snorkelling with the GoPro for the first time (Karl is just a little excited)

More snorkelling plus view of damage caused by our little battle with coral at ScAwful.
Bonus points if you spot when Karl surfaces under the ladder, ouch.

David Attenborough moment. Blue crab contently eating a leaf and Kara in waterfall.